A lot of people that follow project car threads on forums or other websites have seen racecars that get fully stripped for weight savings and cleanliness. This thread is no different, although the purpose is slightly different. The goal of this particular endeavor is to remove the OEM sound deadening and residues on the metal and replace it with newer, thicker, more modern stuff. To do this I employed the dry-ice method that I have seen throughout the years.
The primary reason for removing this material and laying down some new stuff is both to improve the sound deadening but also to get rid of the OEM smells from mid 80s to 2000s cars. The reason these cars have a strange smell, most commonly referred to as smelling like 'crayons', is because of the adhesives they used at the time. This period came during the gas crisis and right around the era where concerns for the environment had started becoming more normalized. The glue that Volkswagen and almost all German auto manufacturers used ended up smelling of crayons. This smell is not only undesirable for most people, but it also gives me pretty bad anxiety for whatever reason.
Anyways, let's get on with it! I found some dry-ice at a place called Oxarc. They're the only place in town with it currently as they make it themselves and gave me a great price. I grabbed about 19 lbs for $20.
As you can see, 20 lbs is really nothing. I only managed to get most of the drivers side of floor done due to the coverage. It didn't off-gas too quickly, which is nice. Next time I will get double the amount for better coverage.
Now we start smashing! I spread out the ice on the floor and waited about 15 minutes at a time. After this time I came back in, pummeled the metal with a hammer and scraper, and repeated. The results were really good. On some places there were little spots of residue that I will need to sand down, but otherwise all of the big chunks came off.
After me being in there with my hot breath and breathing on the ice it started really getting foggy, so I had to pause for a bit. Either way, you can see just how effective this trick is. It just shatters chunks off due to the contraction of the material. It literally just separates from the floor.
After I got the bulk of the deadening removed that I could with the dry-ice, I moved on to grinders, sanders, wire wheels, and patience. The majority of the stuff I couldn't get removed with dry-ice was on vertical surfaces. As you can imagine, it is quite hard to hold the ice on a vertical surface. I tried using bags but it still didn't do great.
Quick note: Don't try to vacuum with a vacuum that is not fit for purpose. The hose was clogged every few seconds. It works much better when the stuff is grinded off and vacuumed up in little bits.
Tried using an orbital sander but it didn't work too well. It is just too slow and smooth to do what it needs. It does a great job of making the tar, glue, and seam-sealer smooth, but not removing it. I switched to a wire wheel and it was much quicker. I actually purchased some knotted wire attachments for my cutoff wheel and it was glorious.
Not seen here is the layer of residue that was on everything after grinding. It vacuumed up very nicely, though. This whole process is about 3 days of work. Grinding, vacuuming, grinding, finding more spots to grind, etc. All of the yellow stuff is a sort of seam sealer that was used to plug holes and seal up the gaps between certain welds. I will replace this with my own seam sealer when done, so don't panic. The purpose of removing it is to get all of the terrible smelling crayon gunk out of there that I can without degrading the quality of this at all. It will be significantly better when it comes to insulation, both sound and temperature, when finished.